Even if you’re not familiar with the name Ghibili, let alone Hayao Miyazaki, you’ll probably be familiar with Totoro (fat, grey, cat-like creature from My Neighbour Totoro). With Hollywood providing voice-overs for some of the Studio’s beloved films, a wider, English-speaking fan base has sprung up outside of the usual Otaku consciousness.
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So you’re in Japan, the Ghibli Museum – now in its 15th year – seems like a logical place to go, right? First things first, you can’t just show up and pay to get in. You’ll need to get some tickets first (see yellow info box).
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When you get to the Museum (and marvelled at how funky the building looks) I recommend taking things in a bit before you head in. Just down from the entrance (if you arrived by bus you’ll not walk past it) is a fake ticket booth with a giant Totoro behind the glass. There’s also some of the soot sprites in another window below the counter (kawaii!).
Also notice the brickwork and style of the lampposts! See that plant pot by the front door – look closer. If it’s Christmas time you’ll also see a beautiful tree in the lower courtyard.
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When you head towards the entrance, you’ll have your paper tickets and ID checked (the team leader needs to prove they have the same name as on the tickets), by the gate, before you’ll head into building. Outside you’re fine taking pictures, but inside it’s strictly forbidden. So by all means take pictures of the stainglass windows on the entrance doors….but that wonderful mural on the ceiling when you proceed two steps in…forget it buster! No one wants to be told off before they’re even passed reception. 😛
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Here your crappy paper ticket will be transformed into a special Ghibli ticket…made from an original cell from one of the films!
I’ve been four times so far and my first ticket was a really good one from Ponyo. Be warned – you may get one with scenery or indistinguishable characters. Oh and try not to fall down the stairs holding it up to the light to work out what it is.
Once inside you can roam to your hearts content. However I do offer this sagely advice. Don’t go right into the first room on the right. Everyone heads there and you’ll spend most the time jostling to see the displays. Instead I recommend heading right to the cinema on the far left of the main hall. Find out what time the next film is on and if it’s not too long, join the queue. You’re cell ticket acts as your admission ticket to the cinema, so you can only go in once. The short film (about 15-20mins) changes each month. Despite going four times I’ve been in December twice so have seen the Egg Princess and the Bread man film twice (it’s excellent!).
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I’ve also seen the sumo mice film (also excellent), and one about school children playing make believe. The latter seems like one of the older shorts (from the style) and involves a lot of Japanese. You don’t need to understand what’s being said to get the gist, but it helps.
Even after the film I recommend doing at least one other thing before heading to first room.
How to get tickets
There are two main ways to get tickets… through the website, or via a Lawsons convenience shop or online. Tickets go on sale one month in advance (so your March ticket will become available after February).
Online
On the 10th of every month at 10am tickets hit the website (also operated by Lawsons). Here’s the link: https://l-tike.com/st1/ghibli-en/Tt/Ttg010agreement/index
Just like buying tickets for a concert, expect the website to crash and to hit refresh constantly for at least ten minutes…if not longer. When you finally get in you’ll likely find that quite a few of the tickets have already gone for the dates you want. You can buy up to six tickets per person. You’ll need a credit card and your passport when booking (and don’t forget to take your passport on the day). Oh and you’ll need to print out the tickets.
They’re all gone? Fear not…for you can still get tickets for the same dates from a Lawsons, even if the website says they’re all gone for that day.
Lawsons
Find your local Lawsons and locate the Loppi Machine (see picture). The Museum is down as something along the lines of the Ghibli Art Museum. You WILL need to use your translation app (we use Google Translate) to get through the process but it’s not impossible. Once you’ve selected your tickets you’ll get a ticket to take to the counter and pay.
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Admission info
Ages 19 and over: JPY1,000
Ages 13 to 18: JPY700
Ages 7 to 12: JPY400
Ages 4 to 6: JPY100
Children under 4 are admitted free of charge. The Museum does not offer discounts. (The above fees include consumption tax)
Opening Times
The Museum is open from 10am-6pm (closed Tuesdays). The cafe opens from 11am. There are four admission times per day – 10am, 12noon, 2pm, and 4pm (you’ve got 30minutes after these times to show up).
As there is no system requiring visitors to leave based on entry time, visitors may enjoy the Museum until closing time.
As well as the changing film there is also a changing display upstairs on the right (same level as the bridge that goes across the main hall). I’m not sure how often it changes though. My first visit in December 2014, I saw a nutcracker type display (I’ve not seen ALL the films and wasn’t familiar with that one). My last three visits (June 2017, December 2017 and February 2018) have all had the same food in the films display (according to the website this has been extended until November 2018 due to popular demand).
How to get there
If you’re going by train alight at Mitaka railway station. You can either walk (takes 15-20 minutes) or take the special bus. From the station, head to the ground floor outside to the left on the far side. There’s a dedicated ticket machine you can get tickets for the bus (which takes about 7 minutes).
Alternatively, if you have time and the weather is nice, get the train to Kichioji railway station and walk through Inokashira Park. The Museum sits on the opposite edge of the park. Allow 40minutes to an hour for the stroll.
If going by car, there are a few small (paid) car parks in the area. We’ve usually found a space at the Times Shimorenjaku #15, 1 Chome-2 Shimorenjaku, Mitaka-shi, Tōkyō-to 181-0013, Japan.
If you’ve got a child of elementary school age or under (whatever that means…I’m British and that’s not the wording we use for our schools), the lucky little…darlings (*jealousy levels rising*) get to enjoy the cat bus. Just once I want to climb inside it and pretend to wave out the window! It’s popular so they only get about five minutes. Even if you’ve not seen all the films*, or if you don’t have a child with you, you will still get some enjoyment out of being here!
If you want to eat something whilst there, there’s a café (be prepared to wait for a table) or a hole in the wall outlet selling vegetable rolls (like spring rolls), hotdogs (too much pepper for my tastebuds) or ice cream. They also have a branded Ghibli beer you can get here.
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And don’t forget to visit the gift shop! If you didn’t much like the animation cell you got you can buy a little mystery bag from a small selection of films (last time I was there it included Ponyo, Howl’s Moving Castle, Pom Poko and Earthsea).
For more information about the Museum, go to www.ghibli-museum.jp/en/
Check out my pictures here
Recommendations
*Not see any Ghibli films and want some recommendations before you visit the museum?
*Pom Poko – Hilarious and fun! Tanuki (racoon dogs) trying to save their habitat from the encroaching humans tap into ancient powers of transmutation. And yes…they really do use their *cough cough* ‘pouch’ to parachute! I also like how the studio decided to object to the city creeping out into the countryside. Fun fact – I live where the film is based (the temple (Ji) they visit in the film is called Manpuku Ji).
*Spirited Away – Amazing magical story! If you like Legend, Willow, and bildungsroman storylines you’ll probably like this. Might be a bit scary for very young children.
*My Neighbour Totoro – A charming story about two sisters who find another magical world in the woods, including Totoro, and the giant Cat Bus.
*Howl’s Moving Castle – Another magical story about a wizard who can move his home around, a magical fire that powers the place, and a girl under a spell.
*Graveyard of the Fireflies – Some people erroneously refer to Ghibli as the Japanese Disney. Films such as this prove they are capable of tackling hard stories. This film follows a boy and the little sister he is trying to protect after they are separated from their parents after a firebombing during WWII. Be prepared to be a blubbering mess! This film is tough to watch and very, very sad.
*Princess Mononoke – A girl grows up in the forest, raised by a powerful wolf. She and the forest try to fight back against the machines. The spirit of the forest/ moon scene gives me chills.
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